Surfs up!
Friday, September 12, 2008
On Friday, September 5, the cast came off my right wrist. On Saturday I hit the Oregon beach for my first ever surfing adventure. First, we stopped at Pura Vida surf shop in Philomath to rent wet suits for a very reasonable price, and those wet suits were well used. They were a full body suit with hoods and booties, which I was thankful for.
The weather was sunny the whole way there. As soon as we crossed the highway to the beach we were in a fog bank which later moved in as clouds. We got there at the peak of high tide and found calm waters. Not very ideal for surfing, but perfect for learning. I didn’t get completely thrashed out there.
The most difficult part of the whole expedition was getting in and out of the wet suit. It was like a full body Chinese finger trap. Once it was wet it had even more suction. I wouldn’t have gone in the water if it hadn’t of been for the wet suit. You don’t realize how much it actually helps until it’s not there anymore. At one point I got hit with a wave that knocked my hood off my head. I realized at that point that the water was way colder than I thought it was. It was almost painfully cold on my head and neck.
My wrist was still fragile having only been out of the cast for 24 hours, and no muscle to speak of. So, I wore a sport brace that I could get wet, and tucked securely into the sleeve of my wet suit.
My size, being very petite, made it difficult to carry the surf board. My arms were too short to carry it under my arm. Once on the beach, Cameron explained a few survival pointers, and tips on surfing. The tie goes on the outside of your ankle, and on the side of the board of which you stand. Never let your board get between you and a wave, or you’ll get hit. Don’t get in front of each other.
As we got in the water it took a few minutes for water to seep into the wet suit, and it was warmer by the time it touched my skin. My hands were a bit cold, but I quickly forgot about that. We waded out in the water which was pretty shallow for quite a ways, dodging waves, up and over. Cameron explained how to mount the board to catch a wave, and how to paddle, and stay back on the board to keep from nose diving. After a few more waves had passed and I gained more distance between me and the shore, I tried for my first wave. I grabbed on and with a little hop mounted the board and started paddling to get some momentum as the wave crested and launched me forward through the water. I felt my cheeks tighten as I smiled uncontrollably. I pushed my chest up off the board, keeping my weight on the back side of the board and quickly closed the distance between me and the beach. I rode my first wave all the way in. Now I had to get back out there, against those waves again. The work was worth it.
It took some focus and just the right wave to catch another one like that. The main problem was lack of swells. The biggest swell all afternoon was probably four feet. The next wave I caught I got up on my knees for a good distance before falling into the water. On the few waves I caught the rest of the day, I never made it all the way to my feet. I did make it to one foot and one knee, but that almost doesn’t count in surfing. It was my first time, and it certainly won’t be the last. I’m addicted. It’s worth the salt water you get up your nose. Next time I’ll probably make it to my feet, but no guarantees I’ll stay up.
Surfing is definitely possible on our coast and won’t drain your pocket book. It’s something that I’ve always wanted to do before I died, and now the seemingly impossible can finally get crossed off the list. Surfs up!
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